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Joshua Tree National Park & San Bernardino National Forest

6/27/2012

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    This last day tested me as I had some of the most memorable and most frustrating moments yet. It was a long day of driving through a boring interstate after leaving my camping spot by Oak Creek, then dropping off my friends in Phoenix, bathing Lucy because she insisted on rolling in the dirt, washing my car and doing some laundry, all before heading to Cali. So by 1pm I was off to spend the night camping at Joshua Tree National Park. About 5pm, I arrived to what appeared the middle of nowhere. As you enter the park it is a couple miles straight away that curves into a long curved road as you cut through small rounded mountains that were too big to be considered hills. You immediately enter another world. First, the hilly mountains are made of large jagged boulders that look like the ruins of a lost city for Giants. At some points it looked almost like Stonehenge and then suddenly the landscape transforms into odd shaped cacti at the base of fuzzy mountains. Literally my surroundings appeared to be hairy or fuzzy with no more than a foot of land remained bare from some sort of unique desert vegetation. The “jumping” Cholla catcus gardens were unreal as they shot out of the ground in clusters or sometimes solo with arms and limbs reaching out in every direction (Photo #1 & 2). Then as you continue down the road you start to see jumbo rocks as big as elephants thrown around a green backdrop and then without a doubt you spot the “self-proclaimed Dr. Seuss” Joshua Tress (Photo #3-5). They casually spring out of the ground ten to fifteen feet high, bending every which way but in a skillful pattern that can only be described as surreal.
    I almost ran off the road a few times trying to look while also navigating the map. We were already running late in the day because I thought it would be better for Lucy and I to beat the heat of the day but this also caused a lot of hassle. First, the Cottonwood visitor’s center was closed at 4pm so I could not ask them advice about the best campsites or get a map. Then the drive into the park was at least an hour with me stopping only once at the Cholla Catcus Gardens. As I finally arrived to my originally planned campsites (White Tank and Bella as they are smaller with very few sites nestled in between the huge boulders), both were closed probably because the park is so dead during the weekdays. So I made my way to one of the larger campgrounds, Jumbo Rocks, which out of forty plus site, only had about seven other groups so I drove around and picked my stop. Then went back to pay. As I returned to start unloading, bees started coming from everywhere and Lucy was trying to catch the bees, which at this point were in the car. I drove back to the payment box to see if I could get my money slip back but now I am out of $10 and see a sign that aggressive, African honey bees are in the area and very territorial. I usually can remain calm but after such a long day, things started to pile up. I got in my car and drove off to start the whole process over at a new campsite. It is about 7pm now and getting dark. I headed back the way I came until I realized all the other campgrounds were the other way so I had to turn around. I was almost at my breaking point as I was trying to take in the sites while not speeding to much through the 35mph curves and bends as you cut through range after range, losing all sense of direction.
    Well it was turning out to be a long, hard day I still stayed calm because when I am alone there is no point to be overwhelmed or even moody as then nothing will get better.  I pasted a few more closed campsites and finally got to Hidden Valley (my original plan after Jumbo Rocks was Black Rock Canyon which was another hour away but at some point to must just settle in). But I did not settle immediately after finding the number site I wanted to enjoy the rest of my day out of the car. I set up my tent and took my camera, some water and Lucy and started to climb these gigantic smooth boulders towards the sunset (Photo#6, 7 & 8). It was so nice, peaceful and bee-free. Things couldn’t get better at that point and I had a wonderful night with Lucy cutting in and out of boulder caves and taking in all the one of a kind flora and fauna all around me.
    This park is one of the less popular ones like the Petrified Forest in Arizona and like the latter, it is turning out to be one of my favorites. It is one of the most beautifully odd places I’ve seen and the activities are endless and childlike as you climb over the huge boulders to the tippy top with ease and slide down without a problem. It is more fun then climbing trees or hiking as it mixes both activities and I really hope to come here again with friends and no dog so I can really explore the maze of rocks (note I do not hike off paths or climb too high as if I fell it is not likely someone would find me and there is no cell reception). While this may have seemed a little whiny, I need to share to mishaps and annoyances of a road trip just as much as the beauty and uniqueness.
    I woke up before the sun to get some good photos and watch the jumbo rocks turn from purple to pink to yellow as the sun rose in the sky (Photo #9, 10 & 11). Overall Joshua Tree National park was a peaceful, quiet, removed and spacious park with tons of great campgrounds each with there own activities to explore. Everyone and anyone can play on the boulders from beginners to expert climbers and even Lucy. I did not think I would enjoy desert camping at all but later in the day the temperature gets perfect and there are no mosquito. Life is flourishing everywhere across this desert backdrop where the Sonoran and Mojave deserts meet. The flora and fauna is one of a kind and cannot be duplicated anywhere else.
    On my way out of the West Entrance this morning, I saw the larger Visitor’s Center with a gift shop that sold firewood at the corner of Park Road and 29 Palms Highway, which appeared to be the only place and therefore left me with cereal to eat for dinner the night before. I had all day to get to Oceanside, so I decided to detour a little and take the scenic route, 243 Firefighter’s Memorial Highway to 74 Florida Avenue through the San Bernardino National Forest (Photo #12 &13).  As I drove into the San Bernardino region, there were endless fields of wind turbines that were oddly beautiful. As I started to climb through the mountains, it was an enjoyable ride as white rock walls with lush green trees hugged the road and small boulders dotted the land. I was very happy I went the extra hour out of the way as I approached Lake Fulmor. You will miss it if you don’t look but it is a must stop for a lunch or walk (Photo #14, 15 & 16). There are also many easy, short trails along with camping within the whole region. As you start to descend, you cut through Idllywild, a cute mountain town at the top with lots of outdoor activities. As I approached Oceanside, I got on 76 South for the last bit with lots strawberry farms and fresh markets on the side of the road. I have only ate my snacks all day so no food porn but lots of great pictures have been added to my photography gallery pages, at the end.


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Phoenix, Flagstaff, Sedona & Oak Creek

6/26/2012

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Its been a few days since my last posting but I have been unplugged so to speak…

    After I left my family in Tucson, I visited some old friends in Phoenix. Since I was staying with them so we really just visited and stuck to their immediate area but there are two spots worth noting. First, we had dinner at local roadhouse style, home cooking restaurant called Texaz Grill, exit 4, Bethany Home road off the 101 Loop. We all shared the fried okra, fried catfish and country-fried steak with mashed potatoes and cold beers served in small 5oz. frosted glass like my father loved. It was so pleasant and well not healthy it was so deliciously yummy. Since we were so full, we also took home some pecan pie, peach cobbler and bread pudding, which were phenomenal. On our way home, we stopped at a locally owned, old record store just like those in High Fidelity or Empire Records, called Zia Records at 2510 W. Thunderbird. It was so nostalgic of my teens to shop through the aisles alphabetically for $2-$11 cds and I jokes I had not brought a CD since 1999 which is true. I ended up getting 7 cds for $40. However, I do not have any photos of this evening and I now have learned the first rule in blogging – never leave your camera because you never know when you will stumble upon something good.
    After not much convincing, my friends decided to go fishing and camping for the weekend and while it was a change of pace for me to be on the road with people, it was nice to share duties and responsibilities. We left Phoenix and drove back to the Coconino National Forest, outside Sedona, where I had driven a week before with my mom but could not stop. The road 89A is a great scenic drive through the mountains with a creek running throughout the red rocks. There is plenty to do in the area including off-roading, fishing (mostly catch and release) and Slide Rock State Park (cost small fee so locals usually park on the side of the road and walk a few creeks away to enjoy the same atmosphere for free). To my disappointment, both campgrounds in the area were full since it was Saturday, so while it was still early we had to change our plans. This happens often on the road and you must remain easygoing and realize it wasn’t meant to be, so we continued to Flagstaff. After parking off San Francisco Street, we checked out the various camping stores in search of a propane grill because there are no open fires in Arizona at this time due to the wildfires across the region. I feel camping is just not the same and my friend had to buy a propane grill to my dismay. We took the scenic route from Flagstaff on Mary Lake Road towards Happy Jack to camp in the Blue Ridge Reservoir in the Mogallan region for fishing and camping under the stars. Just off US 87/ Co.Rd. 65 east of Lake Mary Road, they have a six trout limit in the spring and summer and unlimited the rest of the year.
    Blue Ridge was awe inspiring as huge, hundreds of year old pines cover the rocky canyon side in a blanket and a calm river cuts through the scenic outlook. The water was so still as the reflection of the rich hunter green trees reflected back at the sky. We settled in about a half-mile off the road for some free camping, which is the best kind of camping. When I am traveling alone, however, I would have stayed in the designated areas for fear of some ax-murder from those endless horror films. The next morning, we woke up at the break of dawn so we could catch some trout. I already accepted we would not be able to cook them on an open fire but at least we could catch and clean some fresh fish. Lets just say that authentically catching, cleaning and cooking a fresh fish is still on my bucket list. After a few hours with no bites, which was only about 7:30 in the morning, we decided we have to find a different area to camp and fish at for the rest of the day.  Having missed out yesterday, we decided to head back to Coconino National Forest. We also decided we definitely wanted to eat fish that night so if we could not catch anything by the end of the day then we could hit up the trout farm just a two miles north of Sedona. Before we left however, we went east to the Tonto National Forest to explore the Tonto Natural Bridge State Park. While it was nothing I expected, it was so much more. I walked up to a dreamlike scene with an old tree resting at a cave entrance, with a stream of water falling down to the mossy bottom like melting icicles and tree roots spill over the edge (Photo #1 -3). We took the Gowan trail down quickly to the bottom of the cave but caution it is not easy to get back up and took about thirty minutes and a few rest breaks (Photo#4). As you walk further back into the cave, it was like an oasis with calm pools that reminded me of an imaginary mermaid lagoon (Photo #5 & 6). After a quick photo-op, we quickly took the waterfall trail at the first parking lot to see a colorful display of blackberry brushes and luscious ferns with yellow flowers growing out of the rock wall that was dampened with fresh spring water trickling down (Photos #7-10). On a side note, just this week in the Tonto National Forest, bears attacked two separate people while they were in their tents sleeping and three campsites have been evacuated and closed due to the bears’ activity. These are genuine fears that I have to ignore when sitting alone at night in my tent because if you worry you will be that one chance encounter then you’ll never take the risk of camping and exploring the outdoors. I actually worry more about ax murders then bears which probably is not rational. What is sad however is that these bears will either be euthanized or relocated when we are encroaching on their territory. Respect wildlife, don’t feed or try to pet them (people really try to pet the buffalo at Yellowstone-I witnessed it), don’t litter or leave food out.
    As we took the few hour drive back to the Sedona-Oak Creek area, we decided to enter through Schnebly Road (AZ 179), a true off-roading experience (Photo #11-12). It really is the only way to come through Sedona now, if you have an hour and a half. By this time we rushed to the Trout Farm off 89A (Photo #13) and caught five rainbow trout in 15 minutes. I know I know – it is definitely cheating but I am not going home now until I mark this off my bucket list.  We got to Manzanita campground just a few minutes too late. Since it was full, our only option was Cave Creek Campground with over 80 sites, basically the opposite of last night’s experience. The grounds were gorgeous but it was somewhat loud and crowded (Photo #14). We cooked the trout in some butter and lemon in a skillet and the dinner was amazing, fresh and still satisfying (Photo #15-16). All and all, Flagstaff and Sedona are Arizona camping at its best and the temperatures are perfect with specular spots that are vastly different from anything else.

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Tucson, AZ

6/20/2012

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    I have visited Tucson every year since my birth as most of my close family has resided here for the last forty years and my mom was raised here but moved away at a young age. Family time is a unique phenomenon that cannot be explained because they know and understand you for the person you have been since you were a child and they hope for the best potential for you in the future. You can learn a lot from your elders if you take the time to sit and listen as their life experience can grant you vast knowledge. I always love hearing my grandparents stories from growing up on a farm during the Depression or even just the family dynamic between my mom and her siblings. I have enjoyed the last week here and shout out to my aunt and uncle for letting Lucy and I stay with them so comfortably.

What To Do & Where To Go in Tucson:
    Since this is a travel blog, let me lay out some of my favorite spots and things to do in Tucson. First if you can, avoid the larger malls like Tucson and Park for shopping and hit up 4th avenue down by the University of Arizona (http://www.fourthavenue.org). There are locally made Native American jewelry shops, cute clothing boutiques, great cafes and even out of place corporations like Urban Outfitters on University Blvd. One of my favorites is the Peony Silk Road shop in the back of a marketplace building at 522 N. 4th ave. because Rona Mandal sells one of a kind pieces, while educating you on the stones and meanings (she also has an Amazon store under the same name). In addition, the area has tons of tourist souvenirs at great cost compared to the airport or malls like acrylic encased tarantulas and tequila-flavored scorpion lollipops. While you are down there, if you love photography or want to explore the art of it, please check out the photography exhibits at the U of A Center for Creative Photography (http://www.creativephotography.org). They have the largest collection of Ansel Adam originals (he has inspired my entire trip and my love for photography) but you have to make an appointment to see them in a private room and handle them with gloves. Tucson surprisingly has a lot of art to check out and another great stop is the Tucson Museum of Art (http://www.tucsonmuseumofart.org), which is downtown. It has constantly changing exhibits that range from Andy Warhol to Rock and Roll Photography along with a great gift shop. They have an amazing permanent exhibit of Western and Colonial art in an old historical house that my aunt and I love to explore room by room while it really makes you feel nostalgic. Around the corner from the museum is the old and still current courthouse that displays the wonderful regional architecture. There are also a lot of artist shops throughout the area but do not drift too far from your immediate surroundings. Something hokey but equally entertaining is Old Tucson Studios, which is a small scale theme-park for the old Western movies (http://oldtucson.com). It is very kitschy and as a child I would run around, play carnival games and watch live cowboy shows. Lastly there is the Gaslight Theatre, where we would see holiday shows with bottles of sasparilla while singing along with the hilarious actors (http://www.thegaslighttheatre.com). A lot of the things I have spoken about I did not experience on this trip but throughout my twenty-plus years of vising Tucson and they go across the board in entertaining different ages so you pick and choose.
    If you are in the region, you have to get outside, even though it is over a hundred degrees in the summer. Some of the natural wonders that you can experience in Tucson are the Saguaro National Park and Sabino Canyon. The National Park is truly a desert atmosphere so I have never wanted to camp there with rattlesnakes and coyotes but there are multiple hikes and horse trails throughout (Photos #1-5) . I usually just take the Cactus Forest driving tour but hope to one day take the eight mile bike ride in the evening. The hills and turns are very fun to drive in a car but try to go early or later in the day as the desert heat can be killer. Tucson has some of the best sunsets even compared to the Caribbean so try to go at sunset (park is open sunrise to sunset) and get a one-of-a-kind view at Javelina lookout. Cactus can be so ugly while still so beautiful and there are many different shapes and sizes. I have seen Roadrunners, which have to the funniest bird, along with jackrabbits, squirrels and doves but there are also bobcats, mountain lions, bats and even tortoises. More locally visited is Sabino Canyon, which has a very well-thought out layout through somewhat of a desert oasis as there are green mesquite trees, pricky pear cactus and even small natural pools higher up in the canyon (http://www.sabinocanyon.com). There is a tram that can take you half way to Seven Falls, my favorite childhood spot, which is a total seven mile hike to large boulders with a small waterfall falling into cool spring pools. There are tons of hikes but a shorter walk is up the first hill on the east side to a large white cross - the view there is also spectacular at sunrise. If you are here in the winter, you can see some snow in the desert on Mount Lemon and experience some winding mountain driving. We loved to have picnics here as a child and I do believe my name is still carved in a tree somewhere (not that I condone doing this now, especially in National Parks).

What To Eat:
    Eegee's (photo #6) is a must for one who is visiting Tucson and is always my first stop from the airport usually. Even this week I have had an Eegee's four times but I always stick to lemon. It is like a 7-11 icee and Italian ice combined into greatness called an Eegee's. I have never eaten here though. My family recently enlightened me about the famous Sonora dog as I love Chicago hotdogs but this is very different while also but not equally as good. You have to venture to Ruiz' on the northeast corner of 6th ave and 22nd street (photo #7). It is a crisp beef hotdog charred lightly on a sweet homemade bun with mayo, diced tomatoes and the famous regional diced green chiles (photos #8-10). It was much better than I expected and I would definitely get one again, especially for $2.50. Last but certainly not least is my favorite place in the entire country to eat real Mexican - Poco and Mom at Kolb and 22nd. In fact I ate there twice in one day. First for lunch I had the chile rellenos with a sour cream green chile sauce. Then for dinner, I had the taste of New Mexico plate with a chile rellenos in just green chile sauce (very spicy but in a good way), a chicken and cheese enchilada with a red chile sauce and a crispy Machaca taco, which is slowly marinated beef. Everything on the menu is under ten dollars and the guacamole is very fresh. You can easily eat here for under ten dollars and be full. You have to end the meal with the freshly made sopapillas or start the morning with some coffee and one. They are lightly fried dough with honey or powered sugar on them. I hope I did not leave you too hungry but if so go grab some local grub.

I am leaving the region to truly start this huge journey to nine more National Parks, so please keep reading as I take on some real adventures in the next month. Also on a side note, please click anytime you see font in blue as I have learned to make links, which make my website easier to navigate.
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Father's Day

6/17/2012

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On this first Father's day since I lost my dad, let me share with you a poem that helps me grieve...

"Do Not Stand At My Grave and Weep" by Mary Elizabeth Frye
Do not stand at my grave and weep
I am not there; I do not stop.
I am a thousand winds that blow,
I am the diamond glints on snow,
I am the sun on ripened grain,
I am the gentle autumn rain.
When you awaken in the morning's hush,
I am the swift uplifting rush
of quiet birds in circling flight,
I am the soft star-shine at night.
Do not stand at my grave and cry
I am not there; I did not die.

    Death is a funny thing as many say because it is not until someone is truly gone can we appreciate their value on our lives. All the drama and mishaps of their life seem to be out-shined by the good times and warm memories. I personally cut off ties with my father his last two years on Earth, as his own demons were affecting my life too adversely. However i did not realize we did not have forever and his time ended abruptly at 56 years old. No matter what has happened you should not cut off important people in your life even if they are weak-minded. Now i never got to say i love you one more time...I love you dad. This does not mean you have to forget just forgive because one day they will be gone and you will miss them greatly. Grunges take too much of our positive energy and make you miss out on future opportunities of love and happiness. Tell your father or anyone you care greatly for how much they mean to you today and everyday before it is too late.
    Forgiveness can lead to more love while hate breeds contempt. Do not walk around life filling your thoughts and feelings with negativity because it is so much easier to be happy when you release anger against the past and be the bigger person by looking to a positive future. While my father was struggling with his addictions i gave him this poem. I think it sums up nicely what i am trying to get at about anger versus love...

"The Two Wolves" - A Cherokee Parable
A Cherokee elder was teaching his grandchildren about life.
He said to them, "A fight is going on inside me...its a terrible fight between two wolves.
One wolf represents fear, anger, envy, sorrow, regret, greed, arrogance, hatefulness and lies.
The other stands for joy, peace, love, hope, humbleness, kindness, friendship, generosity, faith and truth. This same fight is going on inside of you and inside every other person too."
The children thought for a minute. Then one child asked his grandfather, "Which wolf will win?"
The Cherokee elder replied..."The one you feed."
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Day Three- Moab, Utah

6/11/2012

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    After 1350 miles of nothing, I have decided if I have nothing nice to say about a place then I wont say anything at all...So the first stop on the roadtrip that is worth while noting is Moab, Utah. I had visited here three years ago, so I was somewhat familiar with the area but already my experience has surpass my last trip probably because I am in good company with my mom. We have been reminiscing and singing - basically things you could only do with a sister or mother. Anyways, per my brother's suggestion, we took the scenic Diamond Dinosaur US bypass (UT- 128 West), rather than US 70 West from Grand Junction, CO to Moab, UT and the extra twenty minute drive was well worth it. Sometimes going down the winding path with no one else around can help you disconnect from the conveniences and fast pace of modern society - your phone doesn't work so that makes it a little easier. As soon as we turn off the interstate, we saw flora and fauna including mischievous prairie dogs running across the road and a pronghorn antelope laying a few feet from the road - neither paid any mind to us as we cruised by. There are multiple free camping sites throughout the cut but Big Bend recreational area seemed to be a good one. However, we are not camping in Utah due the fact I am traveling with a eight year old bulldog in the dead of summer. The narrow road curved along the Colorado River with huge majestic red canyons on both sides and not a cloud in the pale blue sky (Picture #1). Personally when not camping, I stay at La Quintas because all locations take dogs and they do not have a pet fee. Also the free breakfast with an old school waffle makers that turn 360 degrees close the deal for me.
    Just as I had done last time in Moab, we parked outside the visitor center, soaked up a little regional history and geography there and then poke my head in and out of all the local shops up and down Main Street. We stopped for some ice cream at the Moab General Store, where you can find nostalgic candy filling huge barrels and some new twists like roast beef bubble gum (picture #2). When shopping I try to make sure I buy local because who want to get Canadian soap in the middle of the southwest, so always check labels to stay authentic to the region. In addition, I have learned to always ask the locals where they eat rather than playing the guessing game.  I always try to ask people that seem to be like minded, whether that means they are younger or working in an area that interests me like an art store or in this case, the nice lady at the Spa Moab. She suggested Eklectica Cafe a few blocks down in a little house and it was beyond fitting and wonderfully amazing (picture #3). For $22.00 my mom and I had a wonderful lunch as we browsed the jewelry and art that is so uniquely displayed throughout the restaurant and reasonably priced at that. I had the Waldorf tuna salad on lightly toasted marble rye with melted Swiss and a little alfalfa sprouts. We received a lot of food for our money compared to the horrible chains we had been forced to eat at the last few days and I even got a piece of homemade coconut cream pie to take back to my room. The staff was great and so was the atmosphere - this is a must if you are visiting Moab. Ill be getting some cuban coffee and a sweet roll from here tomorrow on my way out of town.   
    Before dinner, I decided to take my mom for a little adventure down Kane Creek Boulevard. You just turn west at the Burger King and McDonald on Kane Creek Blvd. and Main Street. Then, while it may not seem right, you follow the road until it is paved no longer and you are hugging the Colorado River on your right. As you continue, on your left there will be a pull off with large shady trees and some fine adobe colored sand at the base of a large wall. Here is a great opportunity to see some petroglyphs (Picture #4) and also there is camping right on the river at King's Bottom Rec Site and Kane Creek Campgrounds. I did not continue on this particular trip but previously in 2009, Lucy and I went further down Kane Creek to the birthing rock, where one of the only petroglyphs of a woman giving birth can be found on a small car sized boulder (Picture #5 and 6). Later, I finished the night by grabbing a beer at the Moab Brewery, where they had a really good Hefeweizen called Elephant Hill. They had ten local brews and tons of great deals on beer to-go. Tomorrow we are off to Arizona, so Ill keep you posted and load more photographs.
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    Shirlee
    on the Road Travel Blog

    About the Author:

    I was born and raised in the heart of Chicago.  As a child I grew up in the bar that my parents owned.  An unusual experience for most, but I felt at home.  Growing up unconventionally allowed me to have  I love photography, nature, music and good food so most of my posts will be about that and my discoveries in life. Please enjoy my adventures and check in weekly.

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