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Olympic Peninsula, San Juan Islands & North Cascades National Park

7/30/2012

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     Washington State is a one of the most magnificent regions I have visited in both its natural beauty and its disposition of people. I have never had so many gratifying causal encounters with strangers that I have taken so much from. While the whole trip has been amazing and life changing, I think in Washington I have really taken in what I have experienced and molded that into a new way to go about life. I am calm and engaging while open and reflective. It has been serene week and an excellent opportunity to fathom what I have ascertained and process it all. I only have two weeks left so I guess in a sense Washington acted like my therapist, unintentionally and unknowingly, by manifesting my journey into something digestible. This week I started in Olympic National Park, then I headed to the San Juan Islands for two nights and lastly to North Cascades National Park.
    I left Seattle and had to head back south in order to see the Olympic peninsula in its entirety. The US 101 does a big loop around the park and so I met back up with the route along the coast I have grown to love so much. The Washington coast is different then that of Oregon or California as the waves seem to have calmed down, the beach filled with more driftwood and the wildflowers beheld a new kind of distinctiveness. They changed in shape and color along with height and variety. Some how I become very found of wildflowers along this trip and that makes me feel I may have a new appreciation for the small things in life like never before.
    I was driving down 101 as planned but after a glance at the map I saw that the 109 ran right 101 but along the coastline so I spontaneously turned west and continued down that way thinking I found some great route. But as I thought how I would brag to you about the beauty of this great route I hit a dead end. Another glance at the map and the road I thought that met back up with the 101 was in fact a river. It was obvious to me in hindsight. Worth mentioning on the wrong route were the towns of Seaport and Pacific Beach which were picturesque and quaint.
    There are endless choices for camping in Olympic from the rainforest to the coastline but I choose to continue my admiration and exploration of coastal camping off the 101 and settled on South Beach Campground for $10 (Photo #1). My travel guide did not say much about this facility and actually sited Kalaloch as better and right on the beach but I feel South Beach actually has the closest beach access after seeing both. If you can secure one of the 15 sites right on the edge of the beach line, then you are golden. You wake up to the ocean and nothing else. Unfortunately, as I arrived later with little to no planning so I got a site on the third row along a ridge, #14, which was still very pleasing (Photo #2). I set up behind my car and picnic table however to cut some of the wind from the mighty Pacific. There wasn’t much privacy but people seemed to keep to themselves and quietly at that. Lucy and I ventured over the piles of giant dead logs to the stone filled beach (Photos # 3-5). I continued to read for a while but Lucy seemed antsy and as I started to gather my things she took off running to the water. We went on to run and chase each other for about ten minutes and I saw an energy in her I had never witnessed before (Photo 6 & 7). We enjoyed the moment and each other’s company. I like running along wet sand and it makes the menial task more enjoyable.  A funny story but almost not funny at all as that night a quick visit to the bathroom almost ended in disaster. I had my keys in my back pocket, which I never do and in the process of pulling my pants up, I almost dropped my keys into the vaulted toilet, which is like a permanent port-a-potty for those who don’t know and would have been impossible to retrieve. These are the moments where I know the universe is on my side and I was thankful for that.
    As always, I planned in my tent at night a few loose plans to follow the next day. Looking at the map I needed to cross over to the North Cascades National Park by ferry but there were these islands just itching at my curiosity. They were the San Juan Islands, just off the coast of Canada. I started to look for camping options and there were tons so the plan to head to the next park was delayed. Unrelated, I went through the town of Forks, which I have gathered they filmed the Twilight movies at because while everything was closed that early in the morning, everything was Twilight mania. It must have been quite the transition for this town and while the local economy I am sure benefited, the novelty of the town has been lost in consumerism and teen romance. It was a long drive around the park, but once at Port Townsend I took the ferry to Whidbey Island for $13 (Photo #8 &9). Growing up in the Midwest, I have never driven with my car onto a ferry before (Photo #10). I felt like a kid again all excited about the horn being blown oh so loud and the motion of the engines as we backed away from the dock. I saw actual kids acting out their excitement but I remained my age and withheld my delight. It was very pleasing to hang over the rail and watch as we blew pass the waves of archipelago islands and various fishing boat busying at work. The wind was crisp and cold but refreshing with my coffee and I stayed out there for half an hour (Photo #11). I scurried back to my car in time to depart and just headed north immediately after. Driving up US 20 towards Anacortes, you pass Deception Pass, which has amazing camping facilities and is a cool little gorge with an old bridge.
    Once in Anacortes, awaiting the next ferry to the San Juan Islands, I found out the campground, Spencer’s Spit, I had planned to go to on Lopez Island was full on a Tuesday. It is suppose to be the best and right along the beach but no reason to go to that island if the only non-boat-in campground was full. I say this because all of the islands have numerous boat-in campsites, which is on my bucket list to do. Basically you have your own private island if you go during the week. Anyways as the man waited for my abrupt decision to take my money (as fares are different depending each specific island), I quickly choose Orcas Islands and paid the man $46. Then a rapid panic came about me as they instructed me into my lane, I hoped I had made the right choice. As I scanned my books for campgrounds there were only two options on the island so with my fingers crossed, I disembarked from the port at Olcas Village on the southwest end of the island. I headed north on the only main road, Orcas Road to West Beach Campgrounds at the end of Enchanted Forest Drive. They only had two tent sites that were far from the beach and along the road for $48. I declined at the obscene fare and continued onward. We then explored Eastsound, a small town right in the middle of the island with a charming little main street filled with coffee shops and real estate office along with a beach access (Photos #12-14). Funny statistic I heard is that there is 1 realtor for every 333 citizens on Orcas Island. In addition, I for sure thought that Orcas Island was named after the numerous pods of Orca whales that inhabit the area but in fact, unrelated completely the island was named after a Spanish conquistador whose found the island and who’s last name was Orcas.
    So, Moran State Park was the end of the island and my only option left. The universe really helped me out again as I got the last site (#118) at the north end campground for $21. It was a standard site but I have never been so close to a main road and it was annoying. We set up and quickly headed out to explore. First, we drove up to Mount Constitution, an old 1930s Civilian Conservation Corps tower (a program developed with FDR and the New Deal during the depression). It is the highest point in all of the islands and has a spectacular 360-degree view of the archipelagos, the Cascades and Olympic mountains along with Vancouver (Photos #16-17). I do not think I really understood where I was, an island at that, until I saw this view. You can see the archipelago of surrounding islands, Canada and Washington and their various high peaks (Photos #17-21). This is a very popular bike route and while it is a long hard road up, it must be amazing to ride downhill and dangerous I’m sure.
    There was a turn off for the Cascade Falls trail on the way back to the campground with a short hike to a series of waterfall (Photos# 22 & 23). Lucy and I surveyed and climbed everything. Lucy really surprised me as she followed me everywhere, across log bridges and through creeks (Photos #24-26). She got down and dirt and it was nice to see she trust me so much. When I walked across the one fifteen foot fallen log, she looked at me and I gave her a reassuring smile and transversely she ran (Photos #27 & 28). I played with my camera as I shot the color bursts of ferns and sunlight beams that cut through the treetops (Photos #29-33). I walked barefoot through the cold pools of water and soaked my head under the waterfall. We did not see a sole the whole time and it was very harmonious.  We were probably out there for at least two hours until we headed back. However, due to the fact I am a woman or just due to the fact I was not paying attention, we passed the trailhead to the parking lot and got lost. Not really lost but enough that it extended the half mile hike another mile and Lucy had to be carried out in the end. It still was a great afternoon even if I was lost in the woods. Right across from our campground, we laid out on the grass at the public beach area filled with families and read until sunset to soak up what was left of the day. I have to note that while I did not like my campsite so much, the south end and midway campgrounds are right along the Cascade Lake and I was envious.
    The morning of my departure, the ferry was delayed and you would have thought the world was coming to an end. The workers were running around, yelling over the walkie-talkies and basically freaking out. I had no idea where to buy a ticket and probably looked like a lost puppy, who had not had her coffee yet. I gave up and went into the Orcas hotel bakery. The locals were half concerned with the delay and half laughing at the chaos unfold as I listened to the regional coffee chatter. Armed with caffeine, I wandered around and finally with the help of a local man found a kiosk and just in time. As we pulled away, the water shone from the morning sun and the scene was quiet unflustered as we pulled away from the bedlam (Photo #34). For $24, I island hopped to the main San Juan Island at Friday Harbor (Photos #35-37). The town was named after Joe Friday, a sheep herder that worked for the Hudson Bay Company and as other travelers would come they would know thy arrived once they saw the smoke from his fire and so it became known as Friday’s Harbor. Since I love history, I just soaked up the interesting past of these special islands. I wondered how and why people got to these places.
    One of the big draws on the island are the American and British Camps as a result of the Pig War. In 1846, the British and the Americans signed the treaty of Oregon but the wording for the islands was loose and while the settlers were working out the kinks of their new relationship within the island, an American potato farmer shot a British pig. The subsequent events lead to over 400 stationed soldiers from both sides being placed on their own camps within the island. While all out war did not occur it was close and luckily the only causality was a pig. I stopped at both the American Camp and English Camp, at opposite ends of the island but enjoyed the latter more (Photos #38-41).
    That day I drove the whole island, down almost every road probably and hit a lot more dead ends since I was on an island. I headed north up the east side of the island, until I hit Roche Harbor on the north tip of the island (Photos 42 & 43). I don’t usually make judgments like this but it seemed like a stuffy, cookie cutter developed town that was trying too hard to cater to the rich. It was lovely and laid out beautifully and most people probably would not have come to the same conclusion. But I found it odd that there were just front porches with lot numbers saying “This could be your future view” as obviously they were trying to sell a product with this town. The marina was pristine and I know that after living in the Keys. All just rich houseboats and yachts, that’s all there was, no fishing boats as they must make those people hide elsewhere. Lucy had to relive herself right on the dock when she usually only goes on grass and I think she was trying to give some commentary about Roche Harbor or just to embarrass me.
    From one of the tourist magazines I grabbed I knew I wanted to visit the Westcott Bay Sea Farm but I thought I would be able to see more of the production process of reproducing oysters (Photo #44). It was still really fun to pick out fresh oysters from a tank and shuck them Oceanside myself (Photos #45-52). However, while I have grown to love oyster, I guess I don’t have the pallet for the pacific ones because I could not even stomach the golf ball sized oyster that tasted meaty and salty. After that I passed the Krystal Acres Alpaca Farm and had to stop as I saw little babies flocking from the road (Photos #53-60). The gift store was beyond overpriced or that is how much alpaca fleece costs. I just watch the baby alpaca chasing each other and just loved it. The color and texture of their fur was so soft and billowy and as the animals laid calmly enjoying the day so was I.
Then I head to Lime Kiln State Park which is famous for orca sightings but did not think it was worth the ten dollar fee to park so instead I found a pullout on the side of the road just a half mile down and whale watched for an hour or so (Photo #61). There I met a nice couple who also had a bulldog at home and we discussed the island as tourists. It is suppose to be easy to see an eagle like seeing a pigeon in the city but I did not see an eagle or a whale. Not even a seal but lots of deer of course. As I headed around the island, I stopped at a few beaches that varied greatly but were a wonderful drive to - South Beach, Fourth of July Beach and Jackle’s Pass (Photo #62).There were fresh farm egg stands that could have been mistaken for lemonade stands if the sign did not say else so throughout the day. Also a few people selling firewood and one even organic firewood, whatever that means.
    So while the day was very enjoyable, I was also in search of a campsite all day but to no avail. First I tried the San Juan County Park, which has wonderful beach access and unbelievable views of the ocean, with your tent right along the water’s ridge (Photos #63-65). You can kayak into the park with your gear for the best spots but it was one of the best facilities I have seen yet. However, when I went to get a site, I was laughed at in a way Ill never forget as they are booked three months in advance. I spoke with the camp hosts for while and ended up leaving my phone in case something opened but they never called. Then I called the Lakedale resort and while their tent sites are $45, they also were booked. My travel guide said that there was only one more campground, Pedal Inn but once I made my way there it was for bikers only. It was only 1pm, so I planned to just get on the ferry back to the mainland, even though I did not want to (Hotels were over $300 a night so that was not an option).
    Just before I hit the harbor again, I saw an antique store and for some reason unknown to me I turned around to check out an old trunk I saw. I had stumbled into The Corner Store Emporium (est. 1896) on Cattle Point Road and Madden Road and again the universe was on my side (Photos #66-71). I fell in love with everything but specifically a little end table rightly priced at $30 but as I spoke with the owner I explained how long of a journey I still had to go. Somewhere in the conversion I added that I had to depart the island as all the campgrounds were full. Quickly and without second thought, she insisted that I come sleep on her family’s property. We continued discussing details but unlike me, I accepted her offer and agreed to come back in a few hours.
    I went into town to grab some food and explore the various storefronts. Lucy and I settled on a popular multiple level restaurant, Friday’s Crabhouse, where they are known for their grilled oysters (Photo #73). I figured since I did not like the raw ones regionally maybe they would be better cooked and especially grilled. I grabbed a beer at the bar and enjoyed some great company with a family visiting their son, a whale guide, on the island (Photo #74). It was a really nice time and while the food was just ok and no I did not like the oyster even grilled, the restaurant was well run and the staff was super friendly. After, we went in and out of some cute stores and then returned to the Emporium.
    I could write for days about my experience with the Ross family and my life is forever changed after meeting with them. As cliché as it sounds, my faith in humanity has been restored after staying with these incredible people. I am a city kid and never take charity but everything about this situation and these people was just right. I informed my mom of the situation and she trusted my instincts. Once at the store, the sister in law was there waiting to take me to their home. While initially it was okay because it was a woman, I followed her as I was taken down a somewhat remote tree-lined road. It was imitating the first time as I went down this road but the second and third time, it was almost romanticized as the trees limbs stretched out above me and looked like fingertips that were barely touching (Photo #75). I struggle with what to include here and even giving out their family name but I thought it couldn’t hurt their business. I cant illustrate to you the scene I arrived to but immediately I was part of the family. They basically have a compound where multiple generations live in separate dwellings equipped with a kids play house, a chicken coop, a garden, a workshop and the list goes on and on (Photos #76 & 77). I can only hope one day to have something like this for my family. As we joined the party, Lucy got fed from the two-year boy who was eating strawberries that ran down his bare belly as the youngest girls put on a show for me with singing and dancing just like I use to do in my youth with my cousin. I sat in the sun on the grass and got to know each sister and cousin and especially grandma as the men worked on restoring some furniture for the family store. After a few hours, everyone started to disperse and grandma and the sister in law took Lucy and I into their house to clean us up and fed us.     We talked all night the three of us except for when I left briefly to catch the free summer concert at the San Juan Historical Museum (Photo #78). It was out back by an old wooden building and the rockabilly band, Island Rec was great as children were running around and dancing and their parents almost in a potluck manner enjoyed food and visited with other locals (Photos #79 &80). I returned to the compound of love as I call it now and continued visiting and then finished the night by reading my book by the fire. This instance and the Ross family is what the world needs more of and if we had more people like this, the world would be a much better place. They expected nothing in return and made me feel beyond welcomed. I did not feel like a bother but more like I had been in the family for years. Everyone was smiles and while I am sure it is not always so blissful around here, they are the essence of what America once was or so I am told. The children were well spoken, mannerly and genuinely cared for each other. You can really tell a lot by a family by the way the children behave and they are going to be another generation of outstanding people. I am sure all of this sounds too good to be true and maybe even a little unbelievable but I am glad I step out of my norms and accepted their gracious offer because I learned a lot from this family and I strive to model myself and my future family after their caring and loving ways.
    My family is also one full of love. I could call any one of my immediate family members and they would be there for me in a second no questions asked and tell me they love me no matter how many times I mess up. However, it is different when you are on the receiving end of kindness. I think after years of city-life conditioning I am not as  willing to help our fellow man out besides working at charity events or giving a donation. The world outside the San Juan Islands is not always such a nice place anymore and everyone is out to get something, especially in the city where if someone needs to use your phone they will take off with it and that sad child outside the store begging for money for his basketball team uniforms is just doing a hustle. It is sad but if you are from the city then you know it is true.
    One topic I will touch upon that the sister in law and I spoke about a lot is love and the lack of it. One mother’s day I gave my mom a card that said, “Before I knew anything, I knew what it was to be loved.” And this is beyond true. Again when my father passed even with all the drama and unresolved feelings I thought of this statement because I do know he loved me greatly and wholly with all his heart. I have witnessed a lot of people especially down in the Keys that don’t have this and I believe that is how sadness and the resulting bad or evil come from. If a child is not loved growing up then he or she is going to be lacking that in life and that will only lead to more pain and hurt for them and the world. As the Beatles said “ All you need is love” and it is. If everyone just loved a little more then we could fix hunger and make peace by working together- for real. There is no need to put labels on this like that’s being a good Christian or an American because why don’t we all start by being just a good human beings, then maybe everything else will fall in line. I don’t often get so philosophical or even opinionated in these blogs but through my journey there are some lessons I feel the need to share. From now on, I vow to try and be more loving to all people and not just my inner circle. Show a little more compassion and maybe even give people a chance for once. Not all people are bad, most but not all, so lets start here by just helping out one fellow person out like the Ross' did for me and maybe this is how we can bring change and betterment to this very sadistic and broken world. The concept of pay-to-forward comes to mind so if you are reading this, I am giving you the assignment to do one selfless act for a complete stranger without expecting anything in return. On a side note, there is a thought of philosophy that argues there is no such thing as a selfless act because out of the act of giving, you receive self-gratification but while that is true that we receive something out of giving, I think it still altruistic.
The next morning multiple members of the family invited me to stay another night and there was also a free Shakespeare under the stars performance that night but it was time to move on in my journey. I know I will see them again. I knew I had to grab coffee at The Bean as muiltple locals told me it was their favorite but it did not open until 7am so I had two coffees that morning. First at the Church Hill Coffee Beanery where I met a fellow Midwestern and I grabbed a sandwich (Photo #81). Then at the Bean, which was definitely worth the wait and also had wonderful am chatter with the mother and daughter working (Photos #82 & 83). The ferry is free on the way back to the mainland so if you are smart you can either stow away in someone’s trunk or come north from Canada to get back to the continental US. I used the free Wi-Fi on the ferry over some coffee and watched as we soared through the waves at a rapid pace (Photo #84).
    Once on land, it was a short two-hour drive from Anacortes to the North Cascades National Park east across US 20 (Photos #85-86). I stopped at the visitor centers as I was a little overwhelmed with the number of choices for campgrounds but as always I asked where I could stay on the water and the ranger directed me to Colonial Camp, which wasn’t even on my radar. I stopped to photograph a few small waterfalls from the melting snow of the winter, one even with a little rainbow through it (Photos# 87-89). There are over 30 sites on the water with the walk in sites being directly on the water with tons of privacy. It was my favorite lake camping spots of the trip so far and I picked site 74 (Photo #90). I sat on a big tree stump and read until the sun went behind the tree line. Lucy sat with me for about 45 minutes but then retired to the tent (Photo #91). I drank a regional Pyramid Heffenweisen and made an avocado and soft spreadable Swiss cheese sandwich on some honey oat wheat bread (Photo #92). It was divine. I just love when the sun beats down on my skin and I feel so warm and alive as I soak up its energy. I met a great couple from Seattle who were enjoying a very fine dinner and wine a la campside. We talked for a while and they told me about Hart’s Pass just east of the park and the routes they took the previous day. That is the great thing about outdoorsy people; they always have something to talk about and are always willing to share their tales and secrets. I returned to my tent and was wrapped up in writing until I noticed the water level had rose about four feet and my tent was inches from being under water (Photos #93-94). I jumped out and asked my new friends to assist me and we all had a good laugh. I guess in the evening they release the dam on Diablo Lake and hence my waterfront property almost became underwater. Please look at the photos # 91-94 and you will see the log beforehand that I sat on all afternoon and then it underwater by multiple feet up to where my tent was setup.
    I woke up to a real scene of majestic beauty – not much else can be said. I was alone with the morning fog rolling over the lake and melting as it hit the warmth of the shoreline. I really wanted to stay another night but needed to head towards Montana because I have to pick up a friend this weekend in Kalispell. So the next day I left my perfect camp spot and headed east on 20 out of the park. I stopped in and got coffee at Mazama Goats Café, along with some locally grown radishes and peaches (Photo #99). It was a great spot for everything from locally made socks to organic food and various camping supplies. Then I descended up the 13 miles but 40 minute drive up to Harts Pass. The road was very off road and dropped hundreds of feet on the side (Photo #100-102). I had to perfect my speed so the gravel did not skid me over the edge and as always there were tons of deer running about. It was unreal at the top and I have never been surrounded completely my beautiful mountain ranges like that, all different shaped and sizes but all covered in a little snow. I hiked from the parking lot about a mile straight uphill and with the attitude it was quite hard so it was good I left Lucy in the car (Photos #103-109). No one was around so I had to yell out and see if I echoed but it did not. However it made me smile to think about my silliness and solitude at the top of these huge grandiose mountains.
    I was heading towards Idaho when I passed the famous town of Winthrop, which was right out of an old western movie. The strip of stores downtown catered to tourist but the aesthetics of the building made for a great photo opt (Photos #110-113). I had to grab a breakfast burrito once I saw a place and it was so fresh with spinach, mushrooms and potatoes (Photos#114-115). I was happy with my camping experiences this past week and my current burrito that I was indulging in. I have gone a long way and still have a ways to go.


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Mount Rainier National Park & Seattle, Washington

7/23/2012

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     I crossed over into Vancouver, WA from Portland and headed to Mount Rainier National Park by passing Mount St. Helen. The day was unusually clear for the area so the sun felt really good in the crisp air of the Pacific Northwest. The air is heavy and moist here but it feels good to breathe in as the slight smell of wood caresses your nose. Its cold and refreshing. I stopped planning these past few weeks, just rough ideas of where and when or what Steinbeck calls vacilando. I drove from the south end of the park and just continued until I hit the fork for Sunrise and White River, about an hour into the park. Mount Rainier is big, in every way and I felt silly looking for it at first because once I turned a bend it was obvious. While both campgrounds are privately wooded and close to the same general area, I choose site D23 at White River campground because it is one of the only with a view of Mount Rainier (Photo#1 & 2). There are multiple loops but I choose to be in the sun and with the river roaring alongside campsite. I just love camping by water whether it is a creek or lake and if fact it is what I prefer, compare to desert or forest camping (Photo #3 & 4).
    I decided to take a break from my massive endeavor to read the 900 plus paged “Don Quixote” that I have been tackling and loving and try something lighter. So I grabbed John Steinbeck’s “Travels with Charley”, one of the used books from Powell’s Books in Portland. It is a paperback copy from 1980 and cost $4, somehow I like it better that way.  First, it was quite odd that Steinbeck named his means of travel Rocinante, after Don Quixote’s horse since I was reading that prior and had no knowledge of the link. Second, let me just say, that I do not think I have ever been so infatuated with an author so quickly. I love Steinbeck and while I indulged forcibly in high school I do not think I actually gasp or accepted what “Of Mice and Men” was. Everything this 60-year man wrote is exactly what I am experiencing now forty years later and exactly what I am thinking and feeling as a 25-year-old girl. How can I relate to an author so much from such a different time and background? That is what is so amazing about reading. Steinbeck just writes so eloquently about a trip and its planning that I just have to quote him below:

“Once a journey is designed, equipped, and put in process, a new factor enters and takes over. A trip, a safari, an exploration, is an entity, different from all other journeys. It has personality, temperament, individuality, uniqueness. A journey is a person in itself; no two are alike. And all plans, safeguards, policing, and coercion are fruitless. We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us. Tour masters, schedules, reservations, brass-bound and inevitable, dash themselves to wreckage on the personality of the trip. Only when this is recognized can the blown-in-the glass bum relax and go along with it. Only then do the frustrations fall away. In this a journey is like marriage. The certain way to be wrong is to think you control it.”

"In Spanish there is a word for which I can't find a counterword in English. It is the verb vacilar, present participle vacilando. It does not mean vacillating at all. If one is vacilando, he is going somewhere but doesn't greatly care whether or not he gets there, although he has direction."

“I saw in their eyes something I was to see over and over in every part of the nation- a burning desire to go, to move, to get under way, anyplace, away from any Here. They spoke quietly of how they wanted to go someday, to move about, free and unanchored, not toward something but away from something. I saw this look and heard this yearning everywhere in every states I visited. Nearly every American hungers to move.”

“A sad soul can kill you quicker, far quicker, than a germ.”

    I almost finished the whole book while laying in my hammock in the sun next to the river, with Mount Rainier in the background but as the sun drifted behind the trees, the temperature dropped greatly and so I retired into my tent, dragging Lucy, of course. It was cold that night; probably the coldest so far as Lucy woke me up by sitting on my chest shivering. I felt horrible since her pampered self did not ask for any adventures, so I wrapped her in my Patagonia fleece blanket and held her the rest of the night but she could not shake her shivers. I know it is probably sacrilegious that I did not hike or bike at Mount Rainier but again because I am alone. I just don’t feel safe to go alone on trails more then a mile from any major road. I always think of that guy who had to cut off his arm and since I am a klutz it is not unlikely that I would fall and not be found.  But on that note, there are endless scenic activities for the park and I will have to return one day. As I exited a huge six point buck causally munched along the roadside and paid no mind to me (Photo #5).
    The next morning I left early to meet my friend from the Keys mother in Puyallup, just south of Seattle. You know those awkward moments you have sometimes especially with other people’s parents – we did not have any of those. It was so organic as we chatted for over an hour and a half at Anthem Coffee on East Pioneer and 2nd. My friend in the Keys would talk about this coffee place, formerly called Forza, all the time and his mother is such a regular, her drink was waiting as she walked through the door (http://anthemcoffeeandtea.com/) (Photo #6). The staff and owner were so entertaining and a real joy for so early in the morning.  As I continue to explore this region, I am starting to understand finally why Starbucks is not that great. Good coffee and espresso, for me, should not be acidic or bitter and Anthem definitely has a smooth but strong brew. It is funny to check out someone’s old stumping grounds without them there especially because as you see where someone grew up or meet their parents you feel you understand them and their quirks a little better. As we moved onto to breakfast at the Rose Diner just down the street on 2nd to meet her husband, my new friend brought me a bag of their espresso roast to take home with me (Photo#7).
    I just love diners, probably because as a teenager, I would hang out with my friends and drink coffee for hours, all oblivious to the fact we were tying up the waitress’s table. I just like sitting in a booth and watching the people and staff interact over classic breakfast foods. At this particular place, the regulars each have a coffee mug from home that sits on a hook waiting in anticipation for their next visit. My Rose scramble with eggs, hash browns, peppers, ham and cheese was so filling and not greasy at all. I relished the company and truly enjoy the visit. I left smiling until I hit the traffic into Seattle.
    While I like Seattle as a town a lot, I do not like the streets and traffic. Not that there are tons of cars but the lights are so short and the streets are laid out so funny, that it causes traffic. On a whole though, I had a great night in the city. After putting Lucy away at the hotel, I took a quick fifteen minute walk to the famous Pike’s Place Market that I probably first learned about way back in the day with Real World Seattle (Photo #8 & 9). The area surrounding the market is basically the Loop and Michigan Avenue of Chicago only more compact and so equally amusing to see. However I don’t know what it is about girls and little markets but we go ga-ga. Immediately, I remember the French Market in New Orleans and Centro Mercado in Santiago and this one was pretty much in line with those twos greats. There are beautiful arrangements of flowers along side big bins of crabs and oysters and as fish fly across for the tourists delight, musicians are playing washboards and spoons outside the birthplace of corporate icons like Starbucks. There are nooks, crannies, alleys and stairways that lead out to the Ferris wheel on the water, to little dining areas, multiple levels of various stores to fresh farmer markets and flower vendors (Photos #10-21). You can get lost for days and still never see everything. I purchased way too much stuff including an Einstein etching at From the Heart Pottery (http://www.from-the-heart-pottery.com/) and a Lucite key ring of a Northwest coast artifact replica from  (www.danielleen.com) (Photos#22 & 23). I also got fresh honey infused with lavender and a hand blown glass jar closed with a huge baseball sized cork. After all that shopping, I made my own over to Piroshky, Piroshky right in time and did not wait long to get a potato, cheese and onion one (Photos #24-28). Growing up German and Irish I love me some potatoes and dumpling type food so I found the Russian pastry equally as tasty and it was fun to watch the old ladies making them fresh. I also tried the famous northeastern style Clam Chowder at Jacks and one Quilcene Oyster for .50 cents (Photos #29-31). That oyster blew the ones at Swan away but was completely different. It was creamy and sweet and I enjoyed the aftertaste greatly. There were droves of people sitting at the corner and waiting to sit as Jack’s fried fish and chips are suppose to be the best. For dessert, I grabbed a pumpkin cookie at Cinnamon Works and a Thai Ice Tea at Jasmine Thai (Photos #32-36). Everything was made well by its standards and the day at the market was just right and exactly what I love to do.
    Randomly, I found out an old friend from high school lived in Seattle and surprisingly enough we got our plans together in time to met up at Uber Tavern on Aurora Avenue (http://www.uberbier.com/). He is actually first person since I left high school eight years ago (OMG) that I met up with and it was a blast. We had tons to talk about and then he even took we to play Frisbee Golf or Folf. For those Seinfeld fans, it is the summer of shirlee officially now.  The course is laid out like golf with pars and the hole is a set of chains over a receptacle (Photos #37-39). I can throw a football and baseball well above average but I could never grasp the art of throwing a Frisbee however I did fairly well and we played the front 9 well into dusk. I would for sure go again and always appreciate learning new things. I finished Seattle the next morning at Victorola Coffee Roasters on Pine and Bellevue (Photo #40). I enjoyed my newly acquired admiration for good coffee while using their free Wi-Fi to post this blog. It has a perfect cappuccino and entertaining to watch the roasting room while listening to calming world music at the windowsill seat (Photo #41).
    Downtown Seattle is really fun and the city has a certain texture that is somewhat unexplainable. The colors, smell, sights and especially food are special and unique. I enjoyed my short stay here and my wonderful visits with new and old friends. I am heading into another straight week of camping to Olympic and North Cascades National Parks in Washington so stay tuned for the second to last leg of this adventure.



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Portland, Oregon 

7/21/2012

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“Sometimes you will never know the true value of a moment until it becomes a memory.” –                                                                                                                     unknown
    I start with this quote because while I am present in the moment, I do not think I comprehend the enormity or uniqueness of my experiences yet. It was the same in 2009 and on my study aboard to Latin America, I am present and doing everything I can to take in my surroundings but until you look back at it as a memory, do you smile while thinking about it. I am really enjoying myself and can’t believe I have the capabilities to do this (time, money, independence). Everyday I get to wake up and pick what I going to do and where I am going to go and take my time while doing it. I know I am lucky and soon this will all be over and hopefully the new memories of these times will continue to bring joy to my life for years to come. Last week I did not eat out at all to save money and due to being removed from greater society but I made up for that in Portland these past few days so enjoy my food porn.
    After my magical morning watching the sunrise over Crater Lake, I went to Salem through Eugene. I took 138 through the Umpqua National Forest and saw some great free campgrounds called Boulder Flats and Island right on the river. The rest of the day not much occurred besides boring errands like an excursion to Walmart to stock up and a much needed oil change. However, the next morning the first thing I had to do was go to a dealership as all the lights on my dash were on. Obviously not everything was broken but it took about three hours to update my computer or something like that to fix the issue. Right after that I started my eating marathon in Portland. First I went to the famous Voodoo Donuts to try the maple bacon long johns for myself (http://voodoodoughnut.com/index.php). As I approached there was a pretty big line outside with other restaurants and food carts around also very busy (Photo #1 & 2). They teased you in line with a cracked door cooling donuts but once I saw the menu, I had no idea what to get anymore (Photos #3 & 4). The décor was great, with funny bumper stickers and a classic spinning dessert case like those from an old diner (Photo # 5). After looking at the decorated donuts on the racks, I choose to get a bacon maple long john, a captain crunch my berry, a coco-puffs three chocolate penetration, a peanut butter Rice Krispy one and a classic sprinkle cake (Photos #6 & 7). No, I did not eat all of them but I had to try all of them. The captain crunch one was unbelievable and I will forever crave them now. The downtown Portland area is very cool with an old industrial vibe. The mismatched buildings are tied together with old classic vinyl and oversized neon signs. It looks like everything should be photographed in sepia tone to capture the self-proclaimed weirdness of Portland (Photo # 8 & 9).
    I don’t know how I always find these great places I guess through asking people and the tourism guides for the area. But I found the famous Powell Books and spent four hours getting lost on the various color coded levels of the squared city block building (http://www.powells.com/) (Photo #10). The smell of used books is one of my favorite and books make me feel like I could be in any time period. I got eleven books for about $90 so I got a lot of reading to do including The Teachings of Don Juan and the biography of Cleopatra. I wish I had a place like this to escape to in all the time.  Portland has a huge food trucks and carts trend and so I stopped for dinner at 10th and Alder, where I saw a strip of various cuisines from Hawaiian to Thai (Photos# 11 & 12). I got a falafel and gyros plate for $6 and while it was good, it does not compare to those in Chicago (Photo 13).
    The next morning I went back downtown to Stumptown Coffee Roasters on 3rd and Burnside (Photo# 14). It was a huge loft with exposed brick and giant paintings for sale as the booths were filled with people using the free Wi-Fi. An old record player in the corner played some funk next to a display of the different blends of in house coffee (Photos# 15 & 16). I got a great cappuccino for $2.50 and once you start drinking good coffee its hard to drink that cheap stuff but I still do (Photos #17). For lunch, I was told I could not live Portland without visiting Pok Pok (http://www.pokpokpdx.com/). As I made my way to that neighborhood which reminded me of Bucktown or Wicker Park, there was a huge food carts area called street noshery with stands for pies to biscuit sandwiches to smoked meats and Thai tacos (Photos# 18-20). Pok Pok was not a disappointment and exactly the type of place I love to go with a great layout and even better menu (Photos #21 & 22). I got a Cha Manao, a Thai Iced Tea made with fresh lime juice instead of evaporated milk and the Ike’s Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings with sticky rice (Photo 23). I also wanted to try the Papaya Pok Pok and vinegar drink but barely even ate four of my spicy wings. They were perfectly spicy and moist but the sticky rice and ice tea were amazing. I would come here all the time if I live in Portland.
    I took a blanket and book to Washington Park, a great green space right in the middle of the city (http://washingtonparkpdx.org/). I spent the rest of the afternoon at the rose garden in an outdoor concert auditorium that had levels of grassy stairs with huge melon sized roses. They also have the Oregon Zoo, Children’s Museum, Japanese garden, archery fields and much more all easily accessible (Photo #24-29). I spoke to a lot of different people that day and while they engage initially because of Lucy, I enjoy talking to people from all over on this adventure. The people in Oregon are beyond friendly and down to earth. Locals and tourists, the coffee shop lady or Powell books man all are so nice and talkative. A lady from Chicago who was visiting friends told me about PBJs Grilled at Lovejoy and 23rd  and I just had to go see for myself these gourmet grilled sandwiches (http://pbjsgrilled.com/) (Photos #30 & 31).
    The area of 23rd street is a lot like Armitage and Halsted in Chicago and was busy at lunchtime. I had a tough time picking but because I love brie, I settled on the Spencer Sandwich on Campagnola bread, walnut butter, pear jam, caramelized onions, Capicola cured ham and brie cheese (Photo #32). The bread was perfectly toasting and crunchy with the walnut butter really tying together all the different elements of the sandwich. I also wanted to try the Oregonian and the Hot Hood but was just too full after two days of eating out. It is apparent to me that Portlandians seem to go out to eat and spend their money much like Chicagoians. The city as a whole is a lot like Chicago but with more organic fresh restaurants then hot dog and Italian beef stands. I don’t usually try to define a city in just a few words but Portland seem to be into bikes, recycling, fresh food, bridges and coffee. As much as I try to deny my love and addiction to coffee, it is so nice to see so many local coffeehouses and I love the culture that surrounds them. I planned all week to go to the Gorge and hike the Oneonta Gorge Trail at Ainsworth Park about 40 miles east of Portland but just ran out of time. I probably needed the extra exercise after all the good food I consumed. I have enjoyed the past week greatly in Oregon and I am on my way into Washington for the third to last leg of this amazing journey. Thanks for all who have been reading and following the blog. I have been getting an average of seventy hits a day so thanks for the support as I really enjoy this process.
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Lassen Volcanic, Redwoods & Crater Lake National Parks -  

7/20/2012

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    This just keeps getting better…I am sorry but its true. Just when I thought I saw a lot and I mean a lot, I get to see even more and it like I am amazed in a whole new way each time. It is very invigorating and I am very grateful. I once heard a quote that went “the more places you go, the more you realize the less you know” or something like that. With each new place comes a desire to see and experience more. The list of my dreams keeps growing as I cross other accomplished ones off. I started by camping at Lassen Volcanic National Park in northeastern California and then made my way over at the coast to the Redwoods National Park but also stumbled across the Lost Coast in Humboldt county, a truly magical place. After I left the northern coastline of California, I explored the coastal camping in southern Oregon before ending this leg of the adventure at Crater Lake National Park in Oregon. This week I camped for seven days straight and found my inner hippie in the Pacific Coast. I really unplugged while I did listened to a lot of music, I also looked for driftwood along the beach, did some art with watercolors and pastels and mediated or was just quiet in my thoughts.
    After, leaving Lake Tahoe I took 395 to Susanville and then 36 into the Lassen Volcanic National Park. Water was everywhere in the form of lakes, streams, ponds and even snow and was a great change of scenery quickly. You can see Lassen Peak, a volcano that erupted in 1915 creep over the tops of the green pines (Photos #1, 2 & 5). The park actually has all four types of volcanoes in the world all in one area, along with active mud pots, steam vents and hot springs. Lake Helen is a must stop as kids play in a snow bend, you can enjoy the turquoise and emerald waters reflect the snow capped mountains (Photos #3 & 4). I would have prefer to stay at Juniper Lake on the east end of the park down a dead end road but arrived to the park mid afternoon and just waited to settle in.
    I choose Summit Lake North campground for $18 a night but right across the way there is also the south end for only $16 a night (Photo #6). The campground was right on the lake with people swimming steps from their sites and Lucy enjoyed drinking from it all day (Photo #7 & 9). My site was quite private for such a family filled campground with a little pond and stream right behind it (Photo #8). Finally after six weeks, the mosquitos are out and bothering me. I just lite a repellent candle however and they stayed away from my immediate area. The next morning just a quarter mile from the campgrounds, Lassen Peak peered over a creek and even with the snow all around, it was a warm morning (Photo #10). Lastly on the way out I stopped at Manzanita Lake, which mirrored every detail of the trees that towered over and hid the sun (Photos #11 & 12). Again Lucy enjoyed a drink.
    I took the US 44 out of the park and it was a long stretch of driving with no coffee and lots of construction at seven in the morning. After Redding I took the US 299 west and the area is just beyond welcoming to wanting to be outside and on the water. Shasta and Trinity National Forests and subsequently named lakes, rivers and cities are huge with fishing, hiking, water sports and camping. However, there were forest fires with crews and water trucks everywhere. I could not see the drama but sensed that it was very alarming to the area. I did not really have a plan but thought I would camp around Eureka for the night. In Humboldt county, however, I somehow found myself at the Lost Coast, like the Bermuda Triangle, a wrong turn here and there and the next thing I know I found nirvana. At the end of lighthouse road, you turn west from Mattole road, about an hour and a half from any major road or conveniences like gas stations. I started down Mattole Road about twenty miles to the north in Eureka and as I descended up a hill I thought this couldn’t be right but I continued for nearly two hours. The coast flattened out with the road and you could walk right up to the beach (Photos #13-17). The drive was unreal and no one was around. The Mattoel campground is $8 for the most private and closest beach access I have ever had and while in Big Sur and Malibu there were options like them, they were not nearly as remote and quiet. I got an amazing campsite (#1) with the beach right across a ridge and my tent pushed back into a secret hideaway arched by trees (Photos #18 & 26).
    This area was so awe-inspiring as I saw such beautiful landscapes and felt how powerful nature can be. As you climb over the last sand dune to reach the beach, the wind off the Pacific just takes your breathe away and I felt so alive. The beach is filled with smooth pebble stones that go on forever with huge grey slated pieces of driftwood scattered across the beach (Photos #19-23). The lighting on the second day was so perfect there and I think I just got lost in my enjoyment and relaxation because I only took a few pictures that barely can capture the moment (Photos #24 & 25). I painted for hours and read for even longer. I don’t think I have ever been so lost in time like that before. It was really nice and I think something hard to come by so I am glad I really took it in. I will forever remember how the clouds flew by so low and fast as the wind ruffled the hills of purple and yellow wildflowers in a flowing motion as if they all moved in unison, while the ocean would roar loudly ever so often as if to remind you it was still there. It was funny because as I watched the fields of wildflowers sway in the distance, i thought for sure they would be soft. However after i hiked out to them and as I went to lay in their bed, they pricked and poked me with spars and splitters and made a crunchy noise. I included some of my paintings from this day at the end (Photos #67-71).
    I left the area with another long two-hour drive out of the Lost Coast and only a half a tank of gas. However, once I reached the Humboldt Redwoods National Forest, the winding roads were enjoyable taking the turns at 50 or 60 mph because they curve in such a perfect way. It is so hard to capture the trees here, like it was in Sequoia because their sheer size and the magnitude of how many there are is unbelievable. (Photos #27-29). Deer have been everywhere but especially this morning and it is funny how the awww moments of your childhood are replaced with please don’t hit my car, am I even covered for that? I had about five encounters with deer in the past week where they jolt out and then go back and forth on whether they are going to cross or not, all in a matter of five seconds or so. I have not hit any or the coyotes or possums at that but I do not have a fond admiration for deer like I use to.         After you leave Humboldt, you reach US 101 again and the coast before the Redwoods National Park (Photos #30). The drive into the Redwoods is dark as the elderly trees tower over you and all you can wonder is what they have lived through. Basically all we know as human life and even before the known calendar started (Photos #31 & 32) these trees were present. The trees each have their own traits with some dead ones that have gnarly twists and others that go straight up with mossy growth along their sides (Photos #33-38). One must experience this area in person as you feel like you are in a prehistoric jungle with no one around and the cool, wet smell of the trees looms like the fog. I drove through the park on US 101 which lead me into Oregon. Again, I did not have a real plan just hoping to camp on the beach again.
    Just thirty minutes pass the state line at Brookings, I saw the view of a beach with huge boulders and turned off. I was at Harris Beach State Park and with my new go with the flow attitude, I even let the ranger pick my site for me and he actually gave me a good one (Photo #39). It was private behind some trees but right across from restrooms that even had free showers and the trail that lead to south beach (Photo #40). Before I went right down to the beach, I saw a trail marked Sunset Point (Photo #41) on the left. There were beautiful wildflowers as the trail was nestled between tall foliage on both sides of you. The path ended at quite a magnificent view of the beach and surrounding colossal rocks (Photos #42-45) with more wildflowers scattered throughout the clearing. After a brief moment there, I spent the rest of the afternoon at the south end of Harris beach (Photos #46-49). It was way less windy then the Lost Coast and while there were two or three other groups of people, Lucy and I made an area for ourselves between some driftwood and relaxed while I read and got my tan on.
    The next day, I had a five hour drive to Crater Lake National Park so I left early and got coffee at one of the many popular coffee stands that are everywhere in Oregon (Photo #50). Supposedly I should have tried the Dutch Brothers for future reference. I got some gas and found it interesting that in Oregon you are not allow to pump your own gas and a nice attendant comes to your window and gets your payment. I tried to tip but I guess its not customary as they make descent hourly. All three attendants I had throughout the state said that the position makes jobs and they seemed very positive about it. As I exited, there were deer in the middle of town causally walking down the sidewalk and I just laughed as they are everywhere it seems (Photo #51). I took US 62 into the park and went through the Rogue River National Forest and Umpqua Wilderness Area, which were vast.
    I did not expect much for Crater Lake but once you are there it hits you how unique the area’s beauty is as bend by bend there are sights to take in. There was only one campground opened at the park due to snow in the middle of July so we settled in to Mazama and enjoyed the day at our site making quite a big dinner of beans and rice that I could not eat all of (Photo #52). That evening right before sundown I was reading in the tent with Lucy when all of a sudden a bird flew on top of the tent and went on to hop around the top. Lucy went nuts and the bird seemed to be taunting her. I don’t really care for birds and find them quite pesty. A few days before at the Lost Coast, Lucy was on guard all day against the seagulls who came too close for my comfort until Lucy would chase them off with her chest proofed out. But in camping you have to deal with birds and dirt, bugs and bears. The next morning I awoke at 4:30am and packed up camp as quietly as I could but if you know me, you know I can be quite loud with everything I do unintentionally.  I don’t know why I got this plan in my head but I raced to watch the sunrise over Crater Lake. It was one of the greatest moments I ever experienced and I got the best photographs (Photos #53-62). Just as I walked to the edge of the lake, the sky was bright coral and red in color and then the sun just burst over the horizon and made everything golden. The deep water (almost 2000 feet) was so still that it reflected every puff and curve of the clouds above and was just perfect. It seemed to last forever but really within five minutes the sun was fully exposed and the moment was over but I will never forget how amazing it was. I really felt warm inside and thought my dad would have enjoyed the moment. I made an oath that I will start waking up to watch the sunrise more often even though I am a night-owl because in my opinion it seems even mor rewarding then a sunsets, which are also still great.
    I pulled away from the lake but had to keep pulling over because it was so hard to wrap my head around what I was looking out in relation to me as the peaks were coming over the clouds almost eerily (Photos #63-66). After that magical moment at the lake and during the foggy filled drive out of the park to Eugene, I was petting Lucy and telling her how great she is. Then she made this funny face and I said “oh please don’t.” But she then went on to projectile vomit all over the car, everywhere. This might be too much information but usually it is not so violent. I just started laughing. I couldn’t believe what just happened – for real though. Im sure parents feel this same disbelief all the time with their kids but at first I was like “did that just happen” and then I was like “and I have to be the one to clean this mess up”.
    However, don’t get me wrong as Lucy is the best dog I could ever ask for. We communicate so well after all these years like when she was thirsty she clumsily and loudly jumped into the tub at the hotel and I knew what she wanted. Although she can be a hindrance at times for certain activities, she is very well behaved and now in her old age just loves saying hi to people. At first I thought the trip might be too much for her at her old age and in fact I though she hated camping as in the beginning she would sit in the car all night at the campsite and refuse to go into the tent but instead it truly has brought her back to life. She has been running on the beach at full speed, eating sticks and seaweed, chasing chipmunks, rolling in the dirt and just being the best dog she can be. Watching her live in the moment in pure ecstasy like a puppy running around and taking it all in makes me smile. I am so happy I will forever have this to share with at least her and while she is nine years old I know she is living her last bit of life to the fullest.
    In conclusion let me have a little philosophical rant for a minute, as I have reflected a lot this week and I have come to new understand on life and how I can be happy. I don’t have any great secrets of enlightenment to share with you but I just feel a certain calmness to tackling life now. How can you take those moments of relaxation or pure happiness and carry them into your daily life, especially when times are hard? While i do not have the answers to these or any of life's questions, i have realized that you must live life happy by being true to yourself, always. If you are not happy then you need to change it. So often we settle because it is easier then changing the current situation but from change you grow and experience life. Instead of sitting back and letting life happen like a movie, day in and day out, challenge yourself to be happy and try new and maybe even scary things. Francis of Assisi once said “Start by doing what is necessary, then what's possible, and suddenly you are doing the impossible.” Now this does not mean to rule out rationality in your decision making process but you can always change your situation whether you dislike your job or are in an unhappy marriage. When did everyone get so complacent in their lives? When you were a child what do you believe as rights and wrongs? Do you live by those same standards now? When you were young, did you  promise yourself to never be unhappy or mad like you saw so many grownups act like? Even with the problems and drama of life, you can find every day to be enjoyable by surrounding yourself with things you relish in doing and people who have your best interests and not their own at heart, while you both make each other strive to be better people. It may sound selfish but you cant be true to yourself if you are living the dreams of others or taking on other people's problems (the exception to this is health issues).
    For people who truly know me I struggled for years with the purpose of life and whats the point. I know now that for me, the point is to be happy and be present everyday because you don't know when it will be your last. Life at moments can be so good and then so bad but they come as a packaged deal, otherwise how would you know the difference between the two? Life is hard enough so don't make it even more difficult by feeling deficit or un-whole. You should never go to bed thinking about how bad or hard the day was but instead what you experienced and learned from it or what part of the day did you find yourself smiling and just happy. When you think negatively then you feel negative and your interactions with other people is going to go negatively. I have decided, especially after experiencing extreme lose this year, i will always be the best person I can and I am always going to be presently happy in my own life. My older brother says “if I do 100 things wrong today, tomorrow I am going to do 99 things wrong but one thing right.” He is meaning that everyday you should strive to be a better person. Everyday you need to enjoy something fully and learn something new. Enjoy a nightcap at the end of your day or have a long conversation with a friend. Look up that question or definition of something you have been wondering or talk to a stranger and you might learn something. What can you do each day to learn more or grow closer to someone around you? Go to a museum, volunteer at a pet shelter, help your sister with homework, the list can go on and on but it will be different for each of us. Open yourself up to new things instead of defining yourself by what you don’t like.
    This week, I catch myself smiling at things in pure bliss like a family playing on the beach, a good song that brings back old memories or just at the beauty or perfectness of the moments I have found myself in the last couple weeks. I have come to a new level of understanding life and knowing that for me I need to live in the moment more because those are the best parts of life. When i finished a hike and I'm taking in the scenery and power of the wind, when i enjoy my morning coffee, when i am laughing out-loud at my book or that first jump into a lake when its so crisp your whole body tingles - these are the moments that reminds me why life is wonderful, everyday. I have reached a new level of true tranquility that I need to carry over into my day-to-day life. Those great moments of clarity and relaxation can teach you how to appreciate your daily life more and handle problems with stride. As life continues to surprise me and get harder, my ability to take things as they come gets better or easier. They say let is roll or go with the flow – there are tons of clichés expressing the some notion. It just seems that after some pretty hard obstacles in life, the little stuff, the everyday stresses just don’t seem to bother me as much so I guess I am growing up which is pretty scary. Because of this trip, I have the ability to sit with myself and be happy and I don’t think everyone, especially now-a-days, can say the same. This experience has given me solidarity and serenity, which carries over as a new confidence and stillness. I am not a self righteous person, cocky a little but I decided to share my thoughts, hopes, writings and even paintings, in an attempt to inspire others to do the same, question their daily lives, excite change and be happy...Tune in tomorrow for my blog of Portland.

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Lake Tahoe, CA

7/13/2012

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    So this week I took a vacation from my vacation – don’t hate. Once I arrived in Lake Tahoe, I decided to stay an extra few days, as the town is unbelievably gorgeous with tons of things to do, including just relaxing.  It has unsurpassed beauty like Big Sur but with tons of cute restaurants and storefronts along with biking and hiking trails throughout. As you lay at the beach along the crystal clear water, you can see snow on the peaks of the mountains surrounding you. This post is mostly about me relaxing by the Lake and indulging at local eateries in South Lake Tahoe, which basically means a perfect week with pure contentment.
    It was a long day of driving from Yosemite in the south and coming up Hwy. 49, there must have been over ten lakes and rivers filled with wake boarding boats as the water appeared deep and blue. From 49, I hopped on the 89 and then 88 through the Stanislaus and Eldorado National Forests, both with tons of camping and fishing spots, especially the last thirty minutes before the Tahoe Airport. Knowing it was summer, I wanted to get to my campgrounds immediately to ensure a site before I explored. As I passed the Y, where the Lake forked off towards Nevada and then the west end of the Lake, I hit the historic Camp Richardson, where there is the best ice cream parlor. I just had to take a picture when I reached the middle of Emerald Bay as the water turned from a deep blue in the middle to emerald green along the edge of the huge smooth boulders (Photo #1 & 2) I continued on and came up on the Emerald Bay Campgrounds, where I had planned to stay but the gates were closed so I continued on in bewilderment (found out it was being renovated). Next was D.L. Bliss State Park Campgrounds so I quickly took whatever I could get as the day started to get crowded and hectic (Photo #3). I was really disappointed because I thought I was going to be camping on the ridge of the Lake and while Bliss SP has about ten waterfront campsite, they were full. The rest of the campground, while pushed away from the main road and in the trees, had no privacy, It was by far the loudest and busiest campground I have been to this summer and the most expensive at $35. I claimed my site and headed back into town to grab some food and supplies. Having driven all day and now dealing with the Sunday tourist traffic, I decided to regroup and grab some food at Burgers A-Go-Go at 89 and 7th avenue (Photo #4). Not that it was anything spectacular but refreshingly small town as the husband and wife owners took my order through a window outside and bought Lucy water (Photo #5). I started to look at my camping books and knew I needed a different plan for tomorrow. The rest of the evening I checked out the town, including the casinos on the Nevada side and ended up stopping at Starbucks at the base of Heavenly to use the Wi-Fi and book a hotel the next day.  I did not return to camp til 8pm and it was a very long and loud night at the campsite.
    The next morning I eagerly woke up and went to explore. Right after sunrise, I went down to the campground's beach, which the day before was packed. I know now that they had a blob there on Sunday, which is a giant inflatable…well just watch the video link (http://www.newschoolers.com/watch/493894.0/Lake-Tahoe-BLOB?c=6). The Lake was unreal, as it laid so still and the mountains reflected into the clear water (Photos #6-10). It would have been perfect for some morning wake boarding sessions. After packing up camp and the bear box again, I headed back into town as even for 8am the campground was loud with the clutter of weekend families. There is tons to do on this stretch of 89 from hiking to secluded lakes where you can play fetch with your dog, to a 4 mile bike trail along the coastline called Rubicon to even a full amenities marina with boat rentals and a bar with famous $5 rum runners. Thanks to a nice family I met at my hotel in Yosemite (Hi Landon), I knew some of the best hiking spots around. First there is Vikingsholm, where you have to pay $10 to park at but it has trails to a waterfall and an old historic castle (Photo# 11-12). Then there is also Eagle Creek and Fallen Leaf Lake trails to take you to some real amazing and isolated places just a mile or less off the road.
    As I left the state park area and got onto 50, I saw Brothers Burrito with a $5 breakfast burrito sign and frankly I could not resist (Photo #13). And, did I find a great spot, where you can get a huge $5 burrito with free tortilla chips and even a salsa bar with my favorite fresh salsa verde. I ate out front with Lucy over some coffee and wrapped up the rest for later. I just wanted to sit and read by the water when I stumbled upon free parking at Eldorado Beach or Lakeview Commons ( it seems the name is disputed on by locals after the city changed it recently). Lucy and I sat for hours as I read, ate the rest of my morning leftovers and got my tan on a little (Photos #14-15). As we departed our lovely day by the beach, I had to get some locally made ice cream and I shared it with Lucy and she enjoyed it more then me (Photos #16-17).  
    It was finally time to check in at my hotel, Three Peaks Resort and Beach Club and I was beyond blown away with what I got for $50 a night (Photos #18-19) They accommodated me to the fullest and had great, clean facilities including a nice pool and double decker hot tub. The room had a big screen, kitchenette, heater in the bathroom (got to get one of those) and as a matter of fact, the best bed that I ever slept in with a big, soft down comforter. After I settled in, I moseyed on over to the free private hotel beach, at the end of Park avenue, that had a great little restaurant with live music in the evenings (Photo #20). I laid out reading for a few hours but had some plans to try paddle boarding in the evening. I always grab those tourist guides and it always ends up being rewarding. I found out that at Eldorado beach where I spent the whole afternoon, there is $20 Paddle Boarding for Ladies Night on Mondays. The family owned company, Tahoe Stand Up Paddle, did a great job and just sent me out with a smile (http://southtahoestanduppaddle.com). It was my first time but since I pretty good with my balance I was a natural and ended up going out for almost two hours, all for $20. I was hungry, again, after all that hard work so I grab some yummy sake and Ahi Poke at the Naked Fish right on 50 (Photo #21). The bartender, Ricky was super knowledgeable even teaching me about a good luck pour for sake where you overfill the square cup. The tuna was $14 but you did get a lot of fish over a wonderful seaweed salad. However,  on a side note, one of my pet-peeved is being served food in a martini glass. It was a long day and I enjoyed the walk back through the Heavenly resort.  
    I woke up early and headed to Alpina Coffee at 8th avenue and 89, after seeing it the day before and it was the perfect coffeehouse (Photo #22). The staff was super friendly and even gave me coffee ice cubes in my regular iced Americano. They had tons of great pastries and breakfast sandwiches but I settled on a homemade bagel. Lucy and I sat outside in their courtyard with tables made of tree stumps and relaxing water fountains (Photo #23). Another great discovery from my silly tourist guide was the American Legions Farmers Market, every Tuesday off 50 (Photo #24). I got all kinds of goodies like freshly made Kettle Corn (my favorite), local honey (for Carol), some homemade goat cheese, fresh lavender pouches (for my Mom) and some mutated fruit called an angelcoit, which was so sweet and soft (Photos #25-33). It was a great farmers market with lots of variety and packed for a Tuesday.
    Later a local I met took me to a great secret beach on the east end of the Lake at Chimney Beach State Park, just off US28. There is a trail along the rocks, which takes about fifteen minutes to get to Secret Cove but there is a lot of nudity there so we where we ended up settling into Boat Cove (Photos 34-37). They were free and deserted so it felt like your own little private oasis. It was a great afternoon and I felt miles away from everything. The sun beat down on one of the hottest days of the year and the crisp 60 degree water was so refreshing, it really made you feel alive. I watched the sunset over the mountains at my hotel beach and finished the night off with some Mammoth Brewery Golden Trout beers – it was not a bad day, not at all (Photo #38).
    The next afternoon, I grabbed lunch at another locals joint called the Beach Hut (Photo #39). It was very low key and super fresh. I got a Santa Barbara sandwich with bacon, avocado and sprouts along with a Longboard beer for $9 (Photo #40). After that, I met up with some locals an old friend of mine from Chicago hooked me up with and they took me to check out some of the south shore beaches.  We settled on Baldwin Beach which did have $7 parking but that gave you access to four other beaches along this stretch including Kiva and Pope (Photo #41). These local people were professional at this with music, beach games, floaties, cut fruit and cold beer. They were the ones that told me about the Blob on Sunday and all day they were a wealth of knowledge. I could not even believe when they told me that the lake is 1800 feet deep. Can you even fathom that and what lives down that far? This whole region is so old, formed by glaciers and a volcano and probably why it is so one of a kind in beauty. They also boasted about a mile hike to cliff diving at Angora Lakes with up to sixty feet high jumps and while I could not go this trip but it is for sure on my list. That night, I really wanted to get some ink from Reed Mathers at Lake Monster Tattoo but of course he and for that matter the entire store was booked during the duration of my trip. However if you are in the region, he is the best (http://www.lakemonstertattoo.com/). It was another amazing day in perfect Lake Tahoe.
    My last day was uneventful as unfortunately I played too much this week and had to stay in to write this blog and do laundry before the next week of camping at Lassen Volcanic and Redwood National Parks in NoCal. I just ordered into the room from Fat City and actually ended up eating here twice throughout the week since it delivered to the room and both times it was a great locals place for some pizza or some apps (http://fatcityfood.com/). After my last, quick walk to the beach, I hit up the Red Hut Soda Fountain Shop for some late night coffee and dessert and it was adorable and a nice night-cap (Photo #41). A little sad I did not get on a boat to wake board but there are endless amounts of free activities to do too. Stuck doing choice, i missed out on a free movie at Squaw Valley and an unbelievable free concert at Eldorado beach on Thursday, with Keyser Soze this week. You won’t run out of things to do here both in the winter and summer. I meet so many locals this week that were ready and willing to take you to their favorite beach or share a story about their favorite peak to board in the winter. The town has everything from the lake and beaches to the mountain and casinos. I am infatuated with South Lake Tahoe and will definitely be returning again.


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    Shirlee
    on the Road Travel Blog

    About the Author:

    I was born and raised in the heart of Chicago.  As a child I grew up in the bar that my parents owned.  An unusual experience for most, but I felt at home.  Growing up unconventionally allowed me to have  I love photography, nature, music and good food so most of my posts will be about that and my discoveries in life. Please enjoy my adventures and check in weekly.

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