After, leaving Lake Tahoe I took 395 to Susanville and then 36 into the Lassen Volcanic National Park. Water was everywhere in the form of lakes, streams, ponds and even snow and was a great change of scenery quickly. You can see Lassen Peak, a volcano that erupted in 1915 creep over the tops of the green pines (Photos #1, 2 & 5). The park actually has all four types of volcanoes in the world all in one area, along with active mud pots, steam vents and hot springs. Lake Helen is a must stop as kids play in a snow bend, you can enjoy the turquoise and emerald waters reflect the snow capped mountains (Photos #3 & 4). I would have prefer to stay at Juniper Lake on the east end of the park down a dead end road but arrived to the park mid afternoon and just waited to settle in.
I choose Summit Lake North campground for $18 a night but right across the way there is also the south end for only $16 a night (Photo #6). The campground was right on the lake with people swimming steps from their sites and Lucy enjoyed drinking from it all day (Photo #7 & 9). My site was quite private for such a family filled campground with a little pond and stream right behind it (Photo #8). Finally after six weeks, the mosquitos are out and bothering me. I just lite a repellent candle however and they stayed away from my immediate area. The next morning just a quarter mile from the campgrounds, Lassen Peak peered over a creek and even with the snow all around, it was a warm morning (Photo #10). Lastly on the way out I stopped at Manzanita Lake, which mirrored every detail of the trees that towered over and hid the sun (Photos #11 & 12). Again Lucy enjoyed a drink.
I took the US 44 out of the park and it was a long stretch of driving with no coffee and lots of construction at seven in the morning. After Redding I took the US 299 west and the area is just beyond welcoming to wanting to be outside and on the water. Shasta and Trinity National Forests and subsequently named lakes, rivers and cities are huge with fishing, hiking, water sports and camping. However, there were forest fires with crews and water trucks everywhere. I could not see the drama but sensed that it was very alarming to the area. I did not really have a plan but thought I would camp around Eureka for the night. In Humboldt county, however, I somehow found myself at the Lost Coast, like the Bermuda Triangle, a wrong turn here and there and the next thing I know I found nirvana. At the end of lighthouse road, you turn west from Mattole road, about an hour and a half from any major road or conveniences like gas stations. I started down Mattole Road about twenty miles to the north in Eureka and as I descended up a hill I thought this couldn’t be right but I continued for nearly two hours. The coast flattened out with the road and you could walk right up to the beach (Photos #13-17). The drive was unreal and no one was around. The Mattoel campground is $8 for the most private and closest beach access I have ever had and while in Big Sur and Malibu there were options like them, they were not nearly as remote and quiet. I got an amazing campsite (#1) with the beach right across a ridge and my tent pushed back into a secret hideaway arched by trees (Photos #18 & 26).
This area was so awe-inspiring as I saw such beautiful landscapes and felt how powerful nature can be. As you climb over the last sand dune to reach the beach, the wind off the Pacific just takes your breathe away and I felt so alive. The beach is filled with smooth pebble stones that go on forever with huge grey slated pieces of driftwood scattered across the beach (Photos #19-23). The lighting on the second day was so perfect there and I think I just got lost in my enjoyment and relaxation because I only took a few pictures that barely can capture the moment (Photos #24 & 25). I painted for hours and read for even longer. I don’t think I have ever been so lost in time like that before. It was really nice and I think something hard to come by so I am glad I really took it in. I will forever remember how the clouds flew by so low and fast as the wind ruffled the hills of purple and yellow wildflowers in a flowing motion as if they all moved in unison, while the ocean would roar loudly ever so often as if to remind you it was still there. It was funny because as I watched the fields of wildflowers sway in the distance, i thought for sure they would be soft. However after i hiked out to them and as I went to lay in their bed, they pricked and poked me with spars and splitters and made a crunchy noise. I included some of my paintings from this day at the end (Photos #67-71).
I left the area with another long two-hour drive out of the Lost Coast and only a half a tank of gas. However, once I reached the Humboldt Redwoods National Forest, the winding roads were enjoyable taking the turns at 50 or 60 mph because they curve in such a perfect way. It is so hard to capture the trees here, like it was in Sequoia because their sheer size and the magnitude of how many there are is unbelievable. (Photos #27-29). Deer have been everywhere but especially this morning and it is funny how the awww moments of your childhood are replaced with please don’t hit my car, am I even covered for that? I had about five encounters with deer in the past week where they jolt out and then go back and forth on whether they are going to cross or not, all in a matter of five seconds or so. I have not hit any or the coyotes or possums at that but I do not have a fond admiration for deer like I use to. After you leave Humboldt, you reach US 101 again and the coast before the Redwoods National Park (Photos #30). The drive into the Redwoods is dark as the elderly trees tower over you and all you can wonder is what they have lived through. Basically all we know as human life and even before the known calendar started (Photos #31 & 32) these trees were present. The trees each have their own traits with some dead ones that have gnarly twists and others that go straight up with mossy growth along their sides (Photos #33-38). One must experience this area in person as you feel like you are in a prehistoric jungle with no one around and the cool, wet smell of the trees looms like the fog. I drove through the park on US 101 which lead me into Oregon. Again, I did not have a real plan just hoping to camp on the beach again.
Just thirty minutes pass the state line at Brookings, I saw the view of a beach with huge boulders and turned off. I was at Harris Beach State Park and with my new go with the flow attitude, I even let the ranger pick my site for me and he actually gave me a good one (Photo #39). It was private behind some trees but right across from restrooms that even had free showers and the trail that lead to south beach (Photo #40). Before I went right down to the beach, I saw a trail marked Sunset Point (Photo #41) on the left. There were beautiful wildflowers as the trail was nestled between tall foliage on both sides of you. The path ended at quite a magnificent view of the beach and surrounding colossal rocks (Photos #42-45) with more wildflowers scattered throughout the clearing. After a brief moment there, I spent the rest of the afternoon at the south end of Harris beach (Photos #46-49). It was way less windy then the Lost Coast and while there were two or three other groups of people, Lucy and I made an area for ourselves between some driftwood and relaxed while I read and got my tan on.
The next day, I had a five hour drive to Crater Lake National Park so I left early and got coffee at one of the many popular coffee stands that are everywhere in Oregon (Photo #50). Supposedly I should have tried the Dutch Brothers for future reference. I got some gas and found it interesting that in Oregon you are not allow to pump your own gas and a nice attendant comes to your window and gets your payment. I tried to tip but I guess its not customary as they make descent hourly. All three attendants I had throughout the state said that the position makes jobs and they seemed very positive about it. As I exited, there were deer in the middle of town causally walking down the sidewalk and I just laughed as they are everywhere it seems (Photo #51). I took US 62 into the park and went through the Rogue River National Forest and Umpqua Wilderness Area, which were vast.
I did not expect much for Crater Lake but once you are there it hits you how unique the area’s beauty is as bend by bend there are sights to take in. There was only one campground opened at the park due to snow in the middle of July so we settled in to Mazama and enjoyed the day at our site making quite a big dinner of beans and rice that I could not eat all of (Photo #52). That evening right before sundown I was reading in the tent with Lucy when all of a sudden a bird flew on top of the tent and went on to hop around the top. Lucy went nuts and the bird seemed to be taunting her. I don’t really care for birds and find them quite pesty. A few days before at the Lost Coast, Lucy was on guard all day against the seagulls who came too close for my comfort until Lucy would chase them off with her chest proofed out. But in camping you have to deal with birds and dirt, bugs and bears. The next morning I awoke at 4:30am and packed up camp as quietly as I could but if you know me, you know I can be quite loud with everything I do unintentionally. I don’t know why I got this plan in my head but I raced to watch the sunrise over Crater Lake. It was one of the greatest moments I ever experienced and I got the best photographs (Photos #53-62). Just as I walked to the edge of the lake, the sky was bright coral and red in color and then the sun just burst over the horizon and made everything golden. The deep water (almost 2000 feet) was so still that it reflected every puff and curve of the clouds above and was just perfect. It seemed to last forever but really within five minutes the sun was fully exposed and the moment was over but I will never forget how amazing it was. I really felt warm inside and thought my dad would have enjoyed the moment. I made an oath that I will start waking up to watch the sunrise more often even though I am a night-owl because in my opinion it seems even mor rewarding then a sunsets, which are also still great.
I pulled away from the lake but had to keep pulling over because it was so hard to wrap my head around what I was looking out in relation to me as the peaks were coming over the clouds almost eerily (Photos #63-66). After that magical moment at the lake and during the foggy filled drive out of the park to Eugene, I was petting Lucy and telling her how great she is. Then she made this funny face and I said “oh please don’t.” But she then went on to projectile vomit all over the car, everywhere. This might be too much information but usually it is not so violent. I just started laughing. I couldn’t believe what just happened – for real though. Im sure parents feel this same disbelief all the time with their kids but at first I was like “did that just happen” and then I was like “and I have to be the one to clean this mess up”.
However, don’t get me wrong as Lucy is the best dog I could ever ask for. We communicate so well after all these years like when she was thirsty she clumsily and loudly jumped into the tub at the hotel and I knew what she wanted. Although she can be a hindrance at times for certain activities, she is very well behaved and now in her old age just loves saying hi to people. At first I thought the trip might be too much for her at her old age and in fact I though she hated camping as in the beginning she would sit in the car all night at the campsite and refuse to go into the tent but instead it truly has brought her back to life. She has been running on the beach at full speed, eating sticks and seaweed, chasing chipmunks, rolling in the dirt and just being the best dog she can be. Watching her live in the moment in pure ecstasy like a puppy running around and taking it all in makes me smile. I am so happy I will forever have this to share with at least her and while she is nine years old I know she is living her last bit of life to the fullest.
In conclusion let me have a little philosophical rant for a minute, as I have reflected a lot this week and I have come to new understand on life and how I can be happy. I don’t have any great secrets of enlightenment to share with you but I just feel a certain calmness to tackling life now. How can you take those moments of relaxation or pure happiness and carry them into your daily life, especially when times are hard? While i do not have the answers to these or any of life's questions, i have realized that you must live life happy by being true to yourself, always. If you are not happy then you need to change it. So often we settle because it is easier then changing the current situation but from change you grow and experience life. Instead of sitting back and letting life happen like a movie, day in and day out, challenge yourself to be happy and try new and maybe even scary things. Francis of Assisi once said “Start by doing what is necessary, then what's possible, and suddenly you are doing the impossible.” Now this does not mean to rule out rationality in your decision making process but you can always change your situation whether you dislike your job or are in an unhappy marriage. When did everyone get so complacent in their lives? When you were a child what do you believe as rights and wrongs? Do you live by those same standards now? When you were young, did you promise yourself to never be unhappy or mad like you saw so many grownups act like? Even with the problems and drama of life, you can find every day to be enjoyable by surrounding yourself with things you relish in doing and people who have your best interests and not their own at heart, while you both make each other strive to be better people. It may sound selfish but you cant be true to yourself if you are living the dreams of others or taking on other people's problems (the exception to this is health issues).
For people who truly know me I struggled for years with the purpose of life and whats the point. I know now that for me, the point is to be happy and be present everyday because you don't know when it will be your last. Life at moments can be so good and then so bad but they come as a packaged deal, otherwise how would you know the difference between the two? Life is hard enough so don't make it even more difficult by feeling deficit or un-whole. You should never go to bed thinking about how bad or hard the day was but instead what you experienced and learned from it or what part of the day did you find yourself smiling and just happy. When you think negatively then you feel negative and your interactions with other people is going to go negatively. I have decided, especially after experiencing extreme lose this year, i will always be the best person I can and I am always going to be presently happy in my own life. My older brother says “if I do 100 things wrong today, tomorrow I am going to do 99 things wrong but one thing right.” He is meaning that everyday you should strive to be a better person. Everyday you need to enjoy something fully and learn something new. Enjoy a nightcap at the end of your day or have a long conversation with a friend. Look up that question or definition of something you have been wondering or talk to a stranger and you might learn something. What can you do each day to learn more or grow closer to someone around you? Go to a museum, volunteer at a pet shelter, help your sister with homework, the list can go on and on but it will be different for each of us. Open yourself up to new things instead of defining yourself by what you don’t like.
This week, I catch myself smiling at things in pure bliss like a family playing on the beach, a good song that brings back old memories or just at the beauty or perfectness of the moments I have found myself in the last couple weeks. I have come to a new level of understanding life and knowing that for me I need to live in the moment more because those are the best parts of life. When i finished a hike and I'm taking in the scenery and power of the wind, when i enjoy my morning coffee, when i am laughing out-loud at my book or that first jump into a lake when its so crisp your whole body tingles - these are the moments that reminds me why life is wonderful, everyday. I have reached a new level of true tranquility that I need to carry over into my day-to-day life. Those great moments of clarity and relaxation can teach you how to appreciate your daily life more and handle problems with stride. As life continues to surprise me and get harder, my ability to take things as they come gets better or easier. They say let is roll or go with the flow – there are tons of clichés expressing the some notion. It just seems that after some pretty hard obstacles in life, the little stuff, the everyday stresses just don’t seem to bother me as much so I guess I am growing up which is pretty scary. Because of this trip, I have the ability to sit with myself and be happy and I don’t think everyone, especially now-a-days, can say the same. This experience has given me solidarity and serenity, which carries over as a new confidence and stillness. I am not a self righteous person, cocky a little but I decided to share my thoughts, hopes, writings and even paintings, in an attempt to inspire others to do the same, question their daily lives, excite change and be happy...Tune in tomorrow for my blog of Portland.